By Rupert Hogan Turner
Recently I arrived back to sleepy little Adelaide from my globetrotting adventures. Before I left, in my mind I had a list of things that I wanted to do while I was gone. The list included things like “Get a tan” and “eat some nice food”. The list did not include “swim in an Iranian pool exclusively made for bank executives.” Nor did it include “Break between 8 and 30 laws” these and many more were on the list of things I actually did.
A brief googling of Iran will invoke an image of hatred towards America, a growing political, economic and influential power in the Middle East and sand. I landed at 5am and my first challenge was customs. Due to international sanctions, Visa, whilst ‘internationally accepted’, is not accepted in Iran. Three security guards stopped what they were doing to assist me in gaining entrance to the country (not bad for a country that ‘hates America and it’s allies.) Eventually I managed to make it through to hug my Australian friend who now studies language at Tehran University. He walked me to his motorbike and briefly explained that he had no helmet for me to wear, tired and not thinking straight I decided it would be fine. Going 130km/hr weaving between trucks, busses and heavy machinery my mind realised how very, very wrong it had been. “Drivers here know the exact measurements of their cars” Jenkins said “That’s why they drive like maniacs”, it was true, they did. In my first day I saw three cars going the wrong way on main roads as well as countless cutting offs, zero indication and generally reckless driving. “Lanes don’t exist here, do they?” I asked “Not as such” he responded
I was surprised to hear that my blonde haired, blue eyed, Australian accented friend had actually been doing incredibly well in Iran. “You’re a commodity here” He explained to me “Not many travellers get in, so it’s a status symbol to see or hang out with one.” The same can be said about European cars, which everyone who can afford it drives.
Tehran was nothing like I imagined it, huge apartment buildings littered the skyline with the amazing backdrop of rugged mountains. I was lucky enough to enter several of those apartment buildings and see the view from a great height, where it only got better.
A city of 15 million, and it felt like I was the only tourist, which I have to say was amazing. No lines, no complaints, no annoying American accents telling their friend just how well their stock portfolio is doing which I can somehow hear from their train carriage despite me being nowhere near a train line. We went to all the shops, saw the palaces, did all the touristy things and we were the only ones there.
Later in the week we were lucky enough to get invited to a party. Just an apartment, some music, some drinks and 10-15 people. In Iran that breaks at least four laws. Drinking, loud music, fraternising with the opposite sex are all illegal. Finding alcohol is still an option, there is the risk that it is being made “in a bath tub with pills and stuff and put in a Smirnoff bottle” as one Iranian put it.
Tehran has palaces, mountains, old and new architecture, history on every corner, the best hospitality, forty cent petrol and “more nose jobs than in all of California”. It’s a very exciting mix and it is clearly on the verge of generational change.
All in all, Iran has everything. Luxury for those that can afford a holiday filled with private pools, expensive cars and fine shopping. Adventure, for those who like a holiday of excitement, bungee jumping, car and bike racing, long rides through the Iranian mountains, breaking laws. Relaxing, for those who enjoy hot tea, amazing food, no stress and no tourists. Iran has everything.
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